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You’ll go away raving about charred leeks crowned with gribiche and trout roe, or pork schnitzel escorted by a salad of fresh peas and mint, in the identical breath as Sipon, the Slovene pores and skin-contact wine recommended for its “funky-kampucha-dried-apricot vibes.” Brett AndersonBetween their classics outdated and new: Unwanted fat cho